Overnight we'd headed north, to come up and over the largest island of Islabela. We crossed the Equator in doing so, and early this morning crossed back. That event, of course, led to a little boat party! We'd had an early wake up call, to be able to spend some time on deck, taking in the scenery, looking for marine mammals (no luck), and then our little celebration.
Our guides unfurled a banner with the colors of Ecuador. We all crossed underneath at the appropriate time. And we all received certificates from the captain as seasoned Equator-crossers. (We actually did it four times during the trip.)
These two magnificent frigate birds trailed us all morning. They were both males -- you can see the red gular sac on the one above. They kept competing to sit on the antenna of the boat, where there was only room for one....
Ah, Isabela Island, seen from the northwest. As we came around, we could see both Ecuador Volcano and Wolf Volcano, where they've recently found a new species -- a pink iguana! This is Ecuador Volcano, named because of its proximity to the Equator. It is a collapsed shield volcano, and you can actually see both the inner wall and the caldera floor. We stopped at the southern end....
and got into the Zodiacs. We found cormorants and penguins swimming in the waters.
A look back at our ship. Isn't she pretty?
Once again, such beautiful vistas.
Incredible evidence of the volcanic activity. This dyke was amazing. We were able to get really close, and the extrusion visible in the rock is so beautiful.
Marine iguanas, clinging to the rockface.
There were tons of birds, including herons, penguins, cormorants, noddy terns and nazca boobies. But given the seas, only this one of a brown pelican is really clearly visible.
Thankfully, the seas weren't too rough, so we headed back to the boat to change -- deep water snorkeling time!
This was our first deep water snorkel. Needless to say, I was nervous. Off the boat? Can't touch the bottom? Maybe can't see the bottom? But I had my buddies -- Karen and Yvonne. They also weren't confident in the water, and didn't want to hold the rest of their families back, so we opted in together. Yvonne actually went with Ed on this one, but Karen and I were together. We let the rest of the Zodiac go ahead of us, then Pato gave us one last encouraging vote. We swung our legs over the side of the Zodiac, held the rope on the side, and slipped into the water.
As I bobbed up, I heard Pato yell, "Put your face in the water! Put your face in!"
Best. Advice. Ever.
I didn't think, but did as he said. And that did it. Just as I'd started to panic, I did what I was told, and this whole incredible world opened up! I was good. I looked for Karen, and took off away from the Zodiac. And next thing I knew, there was a sea turtle next me.
I stopped trying to move and just floated along. The water wasn't super clear, but it was pretty good. As I watched this one turtle, my peripheral vision caught motion and I jumped -- it was another turtle coming right underneath me. Then a third appeared on my other side. For a while, I slowly moved along, a green sea turtle on either side of me.
Sea turtle headed for some lunch.
Surfacing for air.
Anemones.
Moving past me.
Another coming towards me.
Swimming, swimming, swimming.
Yes, there were more than a dozen turtles in the cove with us.
I'm not sure I'll ever get another experience like this one. We were in the water for over and hour and it felt like minutes. Even though on the way back to the boat we saw a manta ray and a mola mola, the turtles win. Even though not long after seeing my first sea turtle I was stung by a sea jelly -- and was the only person the whole trip to have such a distinction -- and which bothered me for days, actually, the turtles win. I know what it took for me to take that snorkel. I know the confidence Ruly gave me beforehand. I know the power of Pato's words in making it happen. It was an incredible confidence boost. I am so appreciative. I SWAM WITH SEA TURTLES!
Swimming with sea turtles was probably the single most amazing experience of my life. Right then and there, it was confirmed for me what I'd already noticed in just the first two days -- that I've never felt more comfortable anywhere else and that I have to find a way back to the Galápagos.
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