Cuenca and Quito

In short, my travel authorization had been dis-approved, and my tickets cancelled out of the system. By the time we realized this, the flight to Guayaquil was booked. The travel office could get me there on the 27th; our meetings were the 25th. However, they could get me back to Quito on the 26th, and then to the States on the 27th. I figured it gave me more time for community follow-up. It also gave me a chance to see more places and spend more time with friends.

Thursday morning we had a surprise--my friend Veronica from Quito was in Cuenca! She and a friend had come for some healing workshops, and caught up with us at the hotel. As it turns out, we didn't catch up again while in Cuenca, but I knew that I would see her on Saturday, during my layover in Quito. So Veronica was the first of our meetings that morning.


Roses are a huge business in Ecuador, now the leading export. But beware--they are not managed sustainably. You can see the greenhouses all along the road, and can see the devastation of lost foliage and topsoil. You also hear about the horrific effects of the pesticides on the workers. These long-stems were in the lobby of the hotel. While they are beautiful, I couldn't help but think of the real price.


Veronica's friend Janet, my colleague Ramiro, Veronica, and me.

After another meeting at the hotel, we went back to the Museo del Banco, to see the ethnographic collections. These are really extensive and quite nice. Then, Juan Carlos brought us up to Turi, where he is doing some field work. It's yet another lovely mountain view.


Looking out over Cuenca from Turi.

Ramiro's plans for Guayaquil were also changing, as one of his contacts would not be able to make the meeting. But he got off OK. I spent some time with Lucía, visiting several museums, starting some jewelry shopping, and visiting with her international group. (She is a mecca for people from all over the world--I even confused my brain more by speaking a bit of French with some of her guests and a bit of Russian with another.)

Surprisingly, I have no pictures of Cuenca itself. It's a World Heritage Area, and I was never really there, it seems. When I travel, I like to wander, to get a sense of where I am and to see the place. This isn't a complaint, but I never really had that chance in Cuenca. I had such good friends who wanted to show me things, that I was taken care of the entire time. As a result, I really did get to see places that I wouldn't have otherwise. On my last day, Juan Carlos took me to Gualaceo, a small town on the banks of the lovely Río Gualaceo, that is home to a huge indigenous market (but not on the day we were there), then to Chordeleg, a beautiful small mountain town with a wonderful little museum and great jewelry shops. I tried rosero, a drink made from coconut and corn, and bought my macana, my loom-woven shawl.

For lunch, we stopped at Uzhupud, an amazingly beautiful place. This was a hacienda (old huge estates, often dating to Spanish rule in the 16th and 17th centuries) that is now a hotel. It was absolutely remarkable--an oasis from the city. They have a playground for children, a pool, horseback riding, and lots of places to wander and relax. It was a perfect end to a wonderful stay, and a great way to spend my bonus time.


This is almost a cycad garden. Cycads date from the time of the dinosaurs, and are amazing and lovely plants. There are quite large and provided lovely shade. One of the greenhouses holds orchids--another big export of Ecuador. I think this is a mariposa, or butterfly, orchid. I'd never seen one before!


That evening was crazy, running from one event to another. Lucía hosted a farewell party, as several of her group were departing the next day, including me. (I had a terrific last day in Quito with Veronica. We went up the Telefériqo to the top of the mountain--4100m (about 12000 feet)!, did some shopping at the artisan market, and had a traditional Ecuadorian dinner, with wonderful juices, ceviches, and more terrific fish. I'm looking forward to having her move back to the States this fall, although I'll miss her when I make it back to Quito!)

I am so thankful for all that I had the chance to see and do, and for the incredible hospitality shown me. One of the best by-products of my job is the network of friends that I have been so fortunate to develop across the globe. I know how lucky I am to do the job I do, and I treasure the people I have come to call friend as a result.


One last shot, on the road back to Cuenca. Amazing beauty, every day.