Monday, August 5, 2013

Inti Raymi, part 1

How to describe Inti Raymi? Saying it's the culmination of a two-week celebration of the sun doesn't cover it. It's part history, part story, part legend. It's colorful, festive, celebratory. It's spectacular and overwhelming. It's stunning and incredible. Is it completely historic? No. Is it great fun? Absolutely.

And we had front row seats.

(Press passes are amazing things. In addition to the big crews from Cusco and other parts of Peru, there were international crews from Brazil and, I think, China. And next year we'll have big cameras too.)

This post and the next will try to share some of the grandeur and wonder as a photo essay. Hope it works! 

 We started the day at the Qoriqancha. There were four in our group -- M joined me and R and we were meeting A there. We weren't allowed inside. Then R was allowed in, to meet with A, who somehow had already been allowed in. Cusqueños weren't allowed. Foreigners weren't allowed. It was too full already. It was very confusing as people kept going inside and we kept getting different stories. The police were getting their briefings too. Then R came out and I was allowed in to join A. And, there were almost no people inside who weren't part of the ceremony.
 We weren't given much time, but were allowed to see and photograph the preparations. We could shoot anything except the Inka and the Qolla. Above is one of the fans for the royal procession, although I didn't know it at the time.
 This is the Qolla's throne. I tried to get detailed pictures of the sides and the fabrics for the activity centers. Below is one of the symbolic figures of the procession. There were four in total: a mummy, representing the ancestors of the Inka; a condor, representing the heavens; a puma, representing the earth; and a serpent, representing the underworld.

Preparations!
 Once we were asked to leave, we left the site completely. We knew that the first part of the festival was on the grounds of the Qoriqancha, but we headed over to the Plaza de Armas to get our seats for the main ceremony. We were not allowed in the Plaza itself, and the statue of the Inka had been covered for the morning.
 The grandstands were in front of the Cathedral, where morning services were held. Once the dignitaries emerged, the festival could begin at the Plaza. These folks are mostly city government, I believe, including the Mayor. 
 And the music and dancing started. As I understand it, the entry is comprised of groups from the four corners of the Inka Empire (Tawantinsuyu) paying tribute to the Inka.



 And the Qolla arrives.
 Then the Inka arrives. He makes his way up to where the statue is.
 After some speech, some of the Inka's retinue come to get the Mayor. He joins the Inka, and accepts a khipu (a series of knotted cords that served as both a record-keeping device and a message system, not unlike wampum belts). This is a symbolic turning over of the city to the "new" government.
 The tributes and processions continue, as everyone then has to exit the Plaza and head to the next site. 


Finally the Qolla leaves.
And, of course, the Inka leaves.

The next phase would take place up at Sacsayhuaman. We had a placard for the taxi to get us through. We found a place to buy some sandwiches and headed up. 

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