Monday, May 26, 2014

Kyoto, part one

I suppose I should start off with a disclaimer -- I took my trusty old digital SLR camera, but it had a new lens that I'd bought with money from Christmas. I hadn't had a chance to play with the lens yet. That said, for the most part, I think the photos are pretty good. Photographer friends have called my style of photography "zen" as I just play with the camera and the framing until I like it, and I don't like to edit photos. So what you see is what you get, and that works for me. In this case, I had a great subject -- Japan shows itself off well.

Directions in hand I headed off, taking a somewhat circuitous route to the Heian-jingu Shrine. My goal for the day was to enjoy being alone in the city, experience the uniqueness of the city, buy some postcards, eat some good food, and soak up some culture. I had to be back for a 6:30 staff meeting, and it all would start then. I had about nine hours to myself.

The hotel, I should note, was lovely. The elevators were musical. The staff were polite and very helpful. Outside, there were bikes everywhere. While it was a weekday, I felt like I didn't see many people, but those I did were on bicycles. In addition to the vending machines every few blocks, I was also intrigued by the garbage bag nets. They were these huge blue nets and when someone had a bag to add, they brought it to the curb and put it under the net. Tidy and much more attractive. Of course.

Eventually I got to the shrine, a Kyoto city "cultural asset." Built in 1895 it commemorates 1100 years since the capital of Japan was moved to Kyoto by Emperor Kanmu. It is a two-thirds size replica of the original, called Chodo-in, which was the administrative center of the empire.

The two-story O-Tenmon Gate is the main entrance. The roof is called both "hipped" and "gabled."  This is classic Heian-period architecture. 
No idea but I liked them.
Paper lanterns graced the entry.
Inside, one can purchase paper or wooden tiles for leaving prayer offerings and good wishes.
  In the center is the worship hall, the Daigoku-den. Astonishingly, I met two of the tour participants -- the ones with whom I'd waited the evening before at the airport -- at the entrance. They also had a thought to explore and wander a bit, and the hotel had also sent them to the shrine.
The gables and color really were spectacular.
Behind the temple is Shin-en, a national "place of scenic beauty." There are four gardens, each centered around a pond, covering 30,000 square meters. They were my first introduction to real Japanese gardens and they didn't disappoint.
Lotus flowers. Pretty.
 This was my favorite garden because you actually could cross on those stones. That just isn't allowed in the States, and I relished it.
 And then, a great blue heron! Just across the stream, doing a little fishing. My second great blue experience in about a week, and my first of this trip. I'm not sure why, but I always feel like they are a positive signal to me.
 This was common across all the parks -- supports for the tree limbs made from wooden posts. Beautiful, simple, elegant. I love good design.

After the garden, my companions and I parted ways. I headed further east, to find the Philosopher's Path. Turns out it follows a series of streets north, but is etched under the trees along a stream. It was charming with relatively few fellow travelers. And the weather was beautiful. 

But soon I knew I was approaching the temple, by the increase in crowds and shops. My destination was the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ginkaku-ji, or the Silver Pavilion. 

 Not actually made of silver, the name apparently was made to contrast it to the Golden Pavilion. Or perhaps it derives from the gleam of what was once black lacquer in the moonlight. 
 Dating to the late 1400s, only two buildings survive today, the rest victims of fires and earthquakes. The building is not open to the public and restoration work is ongoing.
 Temple grounds include a lovely moss garden and an unusual sand garden.
 There is a circular path to take you around the grounds and show the temple from a variety of vantage points.
The wood really is beautiful, silver or no. 

I then headed to a very late lunch, and off to the handicrafts store. The ambulances talked while they moved down the streets under lights and siren. The city was so clean, felt so safe. Yet outside of the temple area, I kept wondering where all the people were. 

The staff meeting was good -- all but one were in town and ready. I was already impressed by this tour company, and the tour managers didn't disappoint. The lecturers were wonderfully kind and seemed incredibly knowledgeable. There would be three of us institution hosts, and the one who was there I liked very much. I was looking forward to getting started.

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