Kyoto, part two

Day One of the the tour! And a packed day it was.

The group had a private buffet breakfast room that featured both Western and Asian foods. Being me, I skipped the Western table. The group then moved to a lecture room for quick staff introductions, a bit of housekeeping, and then our first lecture. The Harvard professor started us off with an introduction to Japanese Buddhism. We were underway.

After everyone collected a headset we headed for the buses. This group was sizable -- five partners groups (Smithsonian Journeys, National Trust for Historic Preservation, Yale Educational Travel, Princeton University Alumni, and Harvard University Alumni) and the tour was sold out, about 100 people. We had three buses. First stop, Nijo Castle, a "national treasure."

 First built in 1603 by Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, we were headed to the Ninomaru Palace.

 The detail work is stunning. I was liking this new lens!

 No photography was allowed inside the palace. This was also the group's first experience with having to remove their shoes at the entrance. Shoes are not allowed on wood floors or tatami mats -- anywhere in Japan.

The palace is well-known for its Kano school wall paintings and its "nightingale" floors. These were designed to squeak when someone stepped upon them, thereby notifying the household of intruders.

 Next was lunch. Yum, bento box. Yup, mystery foods. Combined we did a pretty good job identifying much of it, although a few items did elude us all. There was also rice and tea, and something else, I think....

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Next up, one of the highlights: Kinkaku-ji, Temple of the Golden Pavilion. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Japan's iconic places. Yes, that is gold -- gold leaf, to be exact. 

 It probably would glimmer in the rain too.

 Menacing details.

 How amazing is this tree support?! The black pines were impressive.

 Stop three was Ryoan-ji, a beautiful Zen rock garden. It was so peaceful here.

Inside, some of the paintings and tatami mats. We had a little time to wander. I saw another great blue heron.

That evening, we had a special treat. We headed to the Gion district for an encounter with geisha. While dinner was lovely, including a wonderful sushi salad and flawless service, the highlight was the ladies. Geisha still exist today and are performers and entertainers. Hollywood has not been kind to them or their profession either. Geisha culture has been recognized by UNESCO as part of the world's intangible cultural heritage. Both of these young ladies wear kimono and dress as geisha 24/7 -- it is not just a job, but a lifestyle they were drawn to by their love of dance and tradition. While I have some qualms about women's rights and their roles in contemporary society, I cannot ignore their grace, exquisite beauty, and dedication to their craft.

 She is a former geisha, and now runs a geisha house. For every ten girls who want to be geisha, fewer than half complete the first year of training, and fewer still complete the apprenticeship.

 She is a maiko, an apprentice geisha, in the final year of her training. She is 19 years old. Her elaborate hair style is her own hair, which takes one hour to do, and the flowers in her hair change monthly to reflect the flowers of the season. Her kimono is brightly colored to indicate her youth, with more folds and longer sleeves. Her red collar is another symbol of her youth and junior status.

 On the right is the geiko, or senior geisha. She wears a wig and a more subdued color kimono with a white collar. Both ladies do their own white makeup, which is a relic from the days of candlelight. For each, they can do their makeup in about 20 minutes, and dress themselves in their kimono and obi in about 10 minutes.

Everyone seemed pleased with the start of the trip, and tired, which was a good sign too.