Monday, February 16, 2015

Modernism, part 4: Palau Güell

The last time I was in Barcelona, about 10 years ago, I don't even remember hearing about this Gaudí building, the Palau Güell. Located off La Rambla, which is where we stayed, it wasn't open to the public then, but I can't believe we didn't even go by it. It's a neo-Gothic palace and one of his first major buildings. It is one of his most important works.

It was built in 1889 for Eusebi Güell, Gaudí's major patron (yes, just like the park). People gawk at it on the street. It was the building that cemented his reputation as a new and innovative architect. The palace has a very different feel, heavier and more sombre. Metal and wood are defining elements here, until one reaches the roof, where those tiled chimneys jump onto the scene. Parabolic arches are everywhere. 

Taken over during the Civil War, the building had a dark history and then was abandoned. But the building underwent 20 years of renovation and reopened in 2010. There is a wonderful section on one of the upper floors that details the research and painstaking work undertaken. Since I know almost nothing about construction, it was fascinating to read about how hard they worked not only to replicate the look, but also the techniques and materials. This, too, is a UNESCO building, and it's well worth it.

The main gates. Heavy and intricate, yet beautiful.
These arches are a continual theme.
The main doors. Yes, huge!
The main staircase, complete with a stained glass window reminiscent of the Catalan flag.
The spiral staircase between the main floor and the basement, which was the carriage entrance.
Wide arches, narrow arches. Many of his buildings have arches, but not to this degree or effect.

The view from the back patio. Not quite the same! Yet perfectly representative of city living.
More metal for these wall sconces.
Ah, the main hall. This was astounding. It's called a parabolic pyramid--each wall is a parabola (arch) that extends the full three floors of the house to the ceiling, creating a dome. Truly remarkable. And as you can see, the arches have arches.
Woodwork like this is everywhere, particularly on the stairwells (like this) and the ceilings. The carving is exquisite.
I believe this is part of the detailing in the master bedroom. The bedrooms are hardly "normal" rooms either....
These windows are a sort of skylight. Until the roof, this was the only feature I saw that demonstrated the "Gaudí" style with the mosaic tiling.
Through this arch of beautiful brick one can see some of the pipes of the organ (extending from the wall on the lower left). The organ has been completely reconstructed and is played during opening hours. I sat for a while in that arch-dome hall, mesmerized by its rich and glorious sound.
And then the roof! Another undulating affair with brick and tile chimneys, whimsical and beautiful.
This one is almost like a lighthouse.

Yup, with a little lizard.
Yet another style. The views from up here are incredible too.
A bat!

It's official. I'm a convert. While I don't love all modernism, it does seem to be my style. Maybe someday I can have a house inspired by Gaudí. We all need dreams....


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