I can't say enough wonderful things about this trip. It was the best trip I've done for Journeys so far, owing to a combination of factors. (To be fair, all of my trips with them have been terrific, and I've done most of them multiple times.) In this case, the trip combined a fabulous vintage train, spectacular scenery and culture, wonderful participants, and an extraordinary crew. [Manuel Rentería, our guide from Sierra Madre, me, Kirt Kempter, our geologist, Cathy and Dan Cross, our medics]
Usually on these trips, I handle logistics (hotel check-ins, baggage pulls, reservations, tickets, etc.) and the study leader handles content. Usually we work very well together and I do some content, especially if there are questions about Smithsonian or Native cultures, and the leader often helps with counts and whatever needs doing. In this case, Smithsonian was partnered with the Sierra Madre Express, and they were the lead on most of the logistics. In addition, they had a medic aboard the train, and a representative of the company, so there were actually six staff. Between the group--who all got along incredibly well--and the great staff, I actually had a lot of fun on this trip.
Many compare the Copper Canyon in Mexico to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. It's an interesting comparison, but not exactly accurate. The Copper Canyon is narrower across and deeper. The canyon is in the Sierre Madre Occidental mountain chain (western part of Mexico). Whereas much of the Grand Canyon is formed by wind and water erosion, much of the Copper Canyon is formed of volcanic calderas and from plate tectonics. [sunset on the canyon]
In any case, you'll see from the photos that it's a lovely area. Copper Canyon is home to the Rarámuri indigenous people (also called Tarahumara). They interact with the growing tourist presence largely through the sale of handicrafts, especially baskets. They weave baskets from the local pine needles, and from sotól, or desert spoon. The baskets come in a wide range of sizes, styles, and colors, and are lovely. The people are beautiful, and it was amazing to be among them in their homeland. [a woman sells her wares; men play traditional songs]
The Sierra Madre train is a vintage 1940s train, complete with individual cabins in a Pullman sleeper car, a dome dining car, and two observation cars, one rounded and enclosed, the other open. While accommodations are "cosy" and basic, they are quite functional.
This was my fourth train tour with Smithsonian, and I just love this way of travel. The scenery is spectacular and constant, the pace is relaxed, the food is amazing, and there are always opportunities for interesting conversations.
We left from Tucson, Arizona and crossed the border into Mexico at Nogales. There we picked up the train, and rode it down the coast, through Sinaloa state to Los Mochis, where we turned northeast into the mountains, and up into Chihuahua state. The trip takes about 16 hours (if you don't have to stop for freight trains or army inspections--yes, we had both on the way home). The train crosses over 36 bridges and through 87 tunnels. It starts in the desert, climbs through the subtropics, and ends in the forest. No wonder National Geographic has called it one of the "world's greatest train journeys."
We stopped overnight first in Ceracahui. After a dusty bus ride down a torturous, nearly single-lane road, we arrived in the lovely village and at the beautiful and extremely charming Hotel Misión. [the hotel grounds; yes, those are vineyards!]
The rooms were lovely, the food was wonderful. Here was Kirt's first lecture (Kirt Kempter is a geologist, and was our study leader), and he covered vulcanology. Having studied some geology, I thought he did a fantastic job of communicating what can be very technical areas to a lay audience.
The next day we took an excursion to Gallego Outlook in Urique Canyon, which is the largest of the six canyons that comprise the Copper Canyon, and more than a mile deep. Stunning!
We then took the train up to Divisadero, staying the next two nights at the Hotel Posada Miradór. I was a lucky one, and had a room up at the very top, in the Eagle's Nest. You can imagine the views! [looking up at the hotel, and WAY up to the Eagle's Nest, from a traditional homestead on the cliffs]
That night was Kirt's second main lecture, this one on plate tectonics. The next day we took the train up to Creel, which, at 8000 feet elevation, is the highest point on the trackline. Creel is a charming town, and that's where I got my sweet Mata Ortiz olla (pot). [a church in Creel]
We then visited the Rarámuri village of Cusárare. [the church, and beautiful painting and woodwork inside]
The following day we had a small hike (mine was smaller, as I was not feeling my usual self), then headed back to the train for the ride home. Even though it's the same trip in reverse, the scenery and view is no less spell-binding. It was a long trip back, made longer by our detailed stop at U.S. Customs, but it was a trip I would absolutely do again. Sometimes, I love my job!
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