My Son

My Son (like Me Sun) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a series of temples and archaeological remains, dating from the 8th-14th centuries. It is powerful and lovely, and very sad.

Obviously, people knew about the site, and it had been left alone for a long time during the war. But as tensions mounted, intelligence noted it as a hideout, and it was bombed, repeatedly and heavily. A number of the monuments were destroyed completely, and fragments remain of others. In one area of 12th century buildings, only one of four remains. Bomb craters litter the site. Turns out, it was not used as a hideout.

It's also a sad site because of the all the misguided aid that has been directed here. The Japanese have invested considerable money into improving the site and renovations, but the additions are theirs, and not Vietnamese. A Polish archaeologist tried to help stabilize and rebuild sections of the site, using some of the fallen fragments; his efforts have proved more destructive than helpful. Hence, some of our discussions surrounded what is acceptable recovery, how do you determine what to preserve and what methods to use, and whose vision controls the preservation.

I also struggled with a few questions here as well, questions that I wish had answers, but none of us could even come close. These questions deal with the issues of cultural authority vs. cultural authenticity, and the role and intentions of safeguarding intangible heritage.


The Japanese bridge leading to the site. Somehow, although I've never seen the original Vietnamese bamboo bridge, I miss it.


American jeeps abandoned at the end of the war now ferry tourists to the site. Thankfully, we walked the two kilometers. It's a lovely path, complete with birdsong and a running stream, if you take the time to stop and listen for a moment.


Our guide, showing us the complex on the map.


One of our first views of the site. The bricks were built in columns, and the original bricks continue to resist mold and plant growth. The greenery is the result of later constructions designed to help stabilize the site.


This is my professor, Amar.


One of many beautiful details still very much in evidence.


View of the main area from the backside.


Current stabilization efforts in another part of the complex. I believe this is an Italian-funded project area.


One of the bomb craters. We needed to stay on the paths in this area, as vipers apparently like this area too.


I don't know how many of my colleagues saw this little figure, but I loved it.